"Like swan which flies spreading it swings"
"Like horse that gallops"
These are how a song sung during boat races in Kerala, especially Alappuzha, qualifies the boats participating in boat races. It is such a marvellous sight. What makes it more creditworthy is the fact that humans row the boats at such a speed.
Well known for its water bodies that take the form of canals, backwaters and rivers is Kerala. Kerala consists of regions where water dominates life of those living in its vicinity. Alappuzha, which is a southern district of Kerala, is such a region which has a great amount of area under water. Some of the rivers which originate in the highlands of the Western Ghats flow down to join the vast stretches of backwaters and canals that crisscross the heart of Alappuzha and the nearby region of Kottayam.
Numerous boat races happen in these backwaters. One of the popular races happening in and around Alappuzha is the annual Champakulam boat race. Formally known as the Champakulam Moolam Boat Race, it happens in Champakulam and is the oldest and most popular "vallam kali", as Snake boat race is known in Malayalam, in Kerala. According to the Malayalam Era, the race is held on the River Pamba on Moolam Day of the Malayalam month, Midhunam. The race corresponds to the day of the installation of the deity at the Ambalappuzha Sree Krishna Temple.
Champakulam boat race marks the beginning of the season for boat races in Kerala. Champakulam is a serene village which by and large has an agrarian community. One could witness local people turning out in large numbers since the morning of race day, joined by visitors from far off places including travellers to Kerala. There is immense jostling for space as people of all age groups compete on river banks to occupy the best possible of positions to view the race. Some could be seen struggling to get an elbow space and craning their necks to catch a glimpse of the race course. In this region the snake boat race is often considered as the ultimate test of endurance, speed and skill. Prior to participating in the race, the rowers who numbers about ninety to hundred on each boat undergo rigorous training for several days.
Boats from nearby regions assemble at the starting point of the race in the afternoon. Then a procession of participating teams and cultural shows follows. As it gets late, boats of various categories like the "chundan" (snake boat), "veppu", "iruttu kuthi", "churulan" and others would line up for the race. The format is first heats which lead to the final race in each category. Among all categories of boat, the snake boats are the centre of attraction and its final race is celebrated with passion.
As the majestic snake boats speed up, the gracefully flowing waters of Pamba become a track on fire. As these boats glide elegantly and swiftly past the charming Champakulam Church, the spectators would get to enjoy some photo-finishes.